Seam for garments



y 1936- M. c. SCHRANK 2,041,626

SEAM FOR GARMENTS Filed June 14, 1934 B/As STRAIGHT i I 1 1 I l rlventorCur 01v STRAIGHT L 44; 6, d4amk T54 RAW EDGE 77 Q 3 Patented May 19,1936 UNITED STATES- PATENT OFFICE SEAM FOR GARMENTS Max 0. Schrank,Bridgeton, N. J.

Application June 14, 1934, Serial No. 730,671

1 Claim.

true having reference to the present vogue in women's apparel whichcalls for garment reduction to the minimum. An object of my presentinvention is to achieve the conflicting requirements of reduction ofcost of manufacture and the preservation of the style and practicalutility of the garment. And ,my invention concerns underslipsespecially.

It will be found from the description of the embodiments of my inventionhereinafter given that seams are reduced in number compared with similargarments heretofore.

The seams resist tearing strains, and there is snug or close flt at thebust of the wearer.

My invention consists in whatever is described by or is included withinthe terms or scope of the appended claim.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a view in perspective of a slip embodying my invention viewedfrom the front, with a tom-away portion; 1

Fig. 2 is a similar view of another embodiment of my invention;

Figs. 3 and 4 are, respectively, plan views of the cut-out blanks orpieces of cloth for making the slips shown in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 5 is a detail view in horizontal section ona large scale throughone of the seams.

Describing in detail what is shown in Figs. 1

and 3 of the drawing, the waist or body portion l0, and the skirt ll,including the shadow-proof member l2, are in one integral piece, theseparts being included in the one-piece blank shown in Fig. 3 which issubstantially L-shaped due to the lateral projection from what is oneside of the skirt, of the shadow-proof forming overlap l2. The waist orbody portion l0, consists of front l3 and back It, that aresubstantially duplicate, the opposite side edges of each portion beingshaped on curves to approximate the contour of the wearers body and whenfolded or doubled over on a median line IS, the then adjoining curvededges are sewed from top to the waist line, or a little below, toprovide side seams l6, there being no seams elsewhere except thehorizontal line of stitching H, at the junction of the waist and skirtthat joins the top edge of the shadow-proof forming overlap [2, to thegarment at the waist line, or below the waist line, such stitching llbeing to the back I4.

It will be evident that cost of manufacture of the slip shown in Figs. 1and 3, especially on account of labor, may be very low.

The cloth or fabric when out to form the blank shown in Fig. 3 is so cutthat the grain, that is to say, the strong warp threads W extendhorizon- V tally and the weft threads vertically. It has been found thatwhen the raw edges are sewed together to form the seam with the warpthreads at right angles to such edges, the warpthreads give such bodyand resistance to the pull of the threads as to prevent the threadstearing out under strains in wearing the garment which the weft threadsare incapable of resisting, This is a matter of great practicalimportance especially because of the sheer fabrics of which slips aremade and especially when they are made of artificial silk. To supplementthe strengthening of the seams by the cut as before explained, the formof scam shown best in Fig. 5 has been invented.

The raw edge of the fabric cut on the straight is foldedover to form thelap L, shown in Fig. 5 and upon the thus overlapped portions a piece offabric B, cut on the bias is laid and through the overlying portions thestitching thread T is passed. Such a form of seam contributes materiallyto resist ripping or tearing strains and even alone provides a seam ableto resist such tearing or ripping strains as overcome ordinarilyemployed seam construction.

Preferably there is a hem l8, at the bottom of the skirt formed byfolding over the lower edge and a hem l9, at the top which latter may beconveniently formed of folded over separately made straight strips.

As shown in Fig. 1, the lower portion of the front 13 is free at itsvertical edge from the opposite edge of the back It, where the overlapl2 joins the latter so that there may be free movement of the overlyinglower portions of the backand front to accommodate the movements of theleg of the wearer. The vertical edge of the overlap I2 opposite theconnection with the overlap with the back 14, is loose or free from theline of stitching l1 down to the bottom edge of the overlap.

The slip embodying my invention shown in Figs. 2 and 4 differs from thatshown in Figs. 1 and 3 in that the shadow-proof overlap portion J20,while shown as made integral with the skirt portion, may be a separatelycut, rectangular piece sewed at one edge to one side of the waist orbody and skirt-forming portion of the blank.

so that as will be seen that, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 4,two such rectangular portions may be formed from a single piece by amedian line cut 0. And the top of the slip instead of being the simpleor severe straight formation of the slip of Figs. 1 and 3 ismore fancyin that the top portion of both front and back are out each to a pointedform, and the small trapezoid-like pieces 20, are respectively sewed tothe inclined sides of the point to make a built-up upper part to thewaist which includes upwardly extending pointed portions that overliethe shoulders at the arms at front and back and which provide a V atfront and back. A downwardly extending tuck or dart 2!, may be made ateach side of the front to give a good fit of the garment. If desired,the slip may have a V-front and straight back, or a V-iront and V-back.

The trapezoid-like pieces 20 are necessarily 20 from their method ofproduction illustrated in Fig. 4, cut on the bias and as they constitutethe bust-covering portions of the slip, it follows that being on thebias, they fit snugly and closely to the form. The skirt portion of theslip is cut on the straight and not on the bias and preferably with thewarp threads extending horizontally.

Certain matter appears in this application common to the disclosure ofmy application No. 702,757 filed December 16, 1933 and as to the mattersin common this application is to be considered a continuation in part ofthat.

What I claim is:

A garment made of pieces joined together by a seam formed by overlappingraw edges of the two pieces, one of such pieces having its edge doubledover upon itself, such piece being cut on the straight and the otherpiece cut on the bias and the overlapped portions being joined bystitching that passes through all of them, the

